Textile technology in Nepal in the 5th-7th centuries CE: the case of Samdzong

Abstract

The first results of textile and dye analyses of cloth remains recovered in Samdzong, Upper Mustang, Nepal, are presented. The site consists of ten shaft tombs, dated between the 400-650 CE, cut into a high cliff face at an elevation of 4000 m asl. The dry climate and high altitude favoured the exceptional preservation of organic materials. One of the objects recovered from the elite Samdzong 5 tomb complex is composed of wool fabrics to which copper, glass and cloth beads are attached and probably constitutes the remains of a complex decorative headwear, which may have been attached to a gold/silver mask. SEM was used to identify the fibre sources of the textiles, which are all of animal nature. Two of the textiles are made of degummed silk. There is no evidence for local silk production suggesting that Samdzong was inserted into the long-distance trade network of the Silk Road. HPLC-DAD analysis permitted identification of a variety of organic dyes, including Indian lac, munjeet, turmeric and knotweed/indigo, while cinnabar was identified through micro Raman spectrometry. The results indicate that locally produced materials were used in combination with those likely imported from afar, including China and India. Statement of significance Textiles are not commonly found in most archaeological contexts, yet when preserved in organic state they can be analysed using modern scientific techniques such as Scanning Electron Microscopy and High Performance Liquid Chromatography to uncover information about their fibre and dye sources. This information can be used to reconstruct the economic and social aspects of textile production and exchange in the past. Identification of silk fibres and munjeet and Indian lac dyes in the textile finds from Samdzong, Nepal suggests that imported materials were used in combination with those locally produced. Data availability The authors confirm that all data underlying the findings are fully available without restriction. All relevant data are contained within the paper.